Haghartsin Monastery

Haghartsin was built between the 10th and 13th centuries in a side valley so enclosed by forest that you only see the domes at the last turn of the road. The oldest building is the small church of St Gregory; the largest, St Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God), was finished in 1281 and carries a sundial and fine relief carving on its drum. Beside them stand St Stepanos, a gavit (entrance hall), the ruins of the royal tombs of the Bagratuni princes, and an unusually large 13th-century refectory whose roof rests on intersecting arches — one of the most elegant medieval interiors in Armenia.

The whole complex was extensively restored between 2008 and 2011, which is why the stone looks so clean. It is an active monastery and the most visited sight in the area; early morning or late afternoon gives you the valley almost to yourself, with birdsong instead of coach engines.